Two interesting stories on Crikey this week re the comings and goings in the  Sydney & Melbourne Good Food Guides:

“SMH’s Good Food Guide launch goes stale

TUESDAY 08 SEPTEMBER 2009

A concerned Sydney eater writes:

The plunging profits of the Sydney Morning Herald kept its key executives away from the fading broadsheet’s biggest night — the launch of the SMH Good Food Guide at Carriageworks in Sydney’s Redfern last night.

Concern at falling circulation and poor ad flow meant everyone — except deputy editor Amanda Wilson and grey fox Saturday editor Mark Coultan — was at a strategy session instead of celebrating the good (food) news.

It may have also been the reason why Wilson gracelessly forgot to thank Simon Thomsen, departing editor of the GFG, who was not acknowledged for his contribution to the Guide’s strong sales of 41,000 last year. This 25th anniversary edition will be his last after six years of eating out almost every night and 14 years as a contributor.

Thomsen will be replaced by Terry Durack who was the winner of the now discontinued Glennfiddich Restaurant Critic of the Year in 2007; and was the restaurant critic of the Independent on Sunday.

Peter Fray, editor of the SMH, apparently approached Durack and wife Jill Dupleix in what he hopes will be a return to the glory days of Good Living — but food styles and restaurant eating habits in Sydney have changed dramatically since those days (and so have the spending habits of the editor — Fray is kept on a very tight rein by Lloyd Whish-Wilson).

Shame they couldn’t afford to keep former sections man Michael Visontay’s biggest coup — getting Bill Granger to deliver fresh food weekly.

The next thing they will need to do is cut the Durack review in half (he replaces Thomsen from next week) and get a new column weekly on cheaper eats (a tactic they used in the last recession) — written by someone half the age of either Durack or Saturday reviewer Helen Greenwood.

The idea that Marque lunch is a bargain shows you exactly how outdated the Herald’s views of eating out in Sydney really are.

And it seriously needs to rethink its online strategy — as at 10am today, the only obvious link to the Good Food Guide was yesterday’s story. It took a separate search to reveal the winners posted at just 8am, 12 hours after the news.


followed by

Thursday 10 September 09

Re. Crikey’s story on the SMH’s Good Food Guide, it sounds awfully like the Melbourne Good Food Guide launch where no acknowledgement/thanks/mention was given to the previous editors John Lethlean and Necia Wilden.


Under their stewardship, the Melbourne guide had significant growth year-on-year and was regarded by consumers and the industry alike as “the Bible” to Melbourne food. Feedback from those attending this year’s launch said it was a “weird and eerie” feeling for Lethlean and Wilden to not be there and that “the soul of the guide has gone”.


Fairfax were more than a bit peeved by the duo’s departure to the Weekend Australian Magazine, the circulation of which has risen 2.5% since they started. Indeed it seems even spouses of Fairfax exec’s are somewhat miffed by the duo’s defection, given the comments made on twitter by Pat Churchill, wife of Fairfax exec Don Churchill (chief executive and publisher, Melbourne Publishing), quote:


“RT @JohnandNecia SeeWkd ozmag tomorrow for our survey of 50 Great Aus restnts>> how novel! (via @crazybrave) maybe they’re feeling left out”


Fairfax will be praying that the duo don’t find their way into The Australian mid-week as that could result in a
very short season for the Fairfax food and wine stranglehold given their vulnerability with the “reheating” of
Terry Durack and the struggling apprenticeship of Lethlean’s replacement, Larissa Dubecki.”

There is an email doing the rounds at the moment which originated in the USA, as an attempt to explain their tax system. It’s an equally  appropriate comment on our own direct and indirect tax system and I repeat it in full  here for your enjoyment. A moment’s consideration will have you realise that there is more than a touch of gallows humour in this.  Our friends at the ACTU might also like to stop and give consideration to it before uttering further rabid rhetoric about evil employers:

“Suppose that every day, ten men go out for beer and the bill for all ten comes to $100.

If they paid their bill the way we pay our taxes, it would go something like this…

The first four men (the poorest) would pay nothing.
The fifth would pay $1.
The sixth would pay $3.
The seventh would pay $7.
The eighth would pay $12.
The ninth would pay $18.
The tenth man (the richest) would pay $59.

So, that’s what they decided to do..

The ten men drank in the bar every day and seemed quite happy with the arrangement, until one day, the owner threw them a curve.

“Since you are all such good customers,” he said, “I’m going to reduce the cost of your daily beer by $20.” Drinks for the ten now cost just $80.

The group still wanted to pay their bill the way we pay our taxes.

So the first four men were unaffected.

They would still drink for free. But what about the other six men? The paying customers?

How could they divide the $20 windfall so that everyone would get his fair share?’

They realized that $20 divided by six is $3.33. But if they subtracted that from everybody’s share, then the fifth man and the sixth man would each end up being paid to drink his beer.

So, the bar owner suggested that it would be fair to reduce each man’s bill by roughly the same amount, and he proceeded to work out the amounts each should pay.

And so the fifth man, like the first fou r, now paid nothing (100% savings)
The sixth now paid $2 instead of $3 (33% savings).
The seventh now pay $5 instead of $7 (28% savings).
The eighth now paid $9 instead of $12 (25% savings).
The ninth now paid $14 instead of $18 ( 22% savings).
The tenth now paid $49 instead of $59 (16% savings).

Each of the six was better off than before. And the first four continued to drink for free. But once outside the restaurant, the men began to compare their savings.

“I only got a dollar out of the $20,”declared the sixth man.

He pointed to the tenth man,” but he got $10!”

“Yeah, that’s right,” exclaimed the fifth man. “I only saved a Dollar, too. It’s unfair that he got ten times more than I!”

“That’s true!!” shouted the seventh man. “Why should he get $10 back when I got only two? The wealthy get all the breaks!”

“Wait a minute,” yelled the first four men in unison. “We didn’t get anything at all. The system exploits the poor!”

The nine men surrounded the tenth and beat him up.

The next night the tenth man didn’t show up for drinks, so the nine sat down and had beers without him. But when it came time to pay the bill, they discovered something important. They didn’t have enough money between all of them for even half of the bill!

And that, boys and girls, journalists and college professors, this is how our tax system works.

The people who pay the highest taxes g et the most benefit from a tax reduction.

Tax them too much, attack them for being wealthy, and they just may not show up anymore.

In fact, they might start drinking overseas where the atmosphere is somewhat friendlier.

David R. Kamerschen, Ph.D.
Professor of Economics
University of Georgia

For those who understand, no explanation is needed.

For those who do not understand, no explanation is possible”

FOOD POLITICS NEWS (OR THE STUFF GOVT’s  DON’T WANT YOU TO KNOW OR THINK ABOUT)

France to cut VAT (GST) on cafes, restaurants in July.

The latest truth about GM crops

Constellation trashes our wine heritage for quick bucks while the S.A. state and Federal Government do nothing.

MONSANTO SPIN ALERT: Monsanton PR machine campaigning about Food Inc. the movie,  claiming it “Demonizes American farmers”

Great article on why consumers need government to control the use of the word “Organic”

RESTAURANT NEWS:

The Frank Report blogged 160209: “The jungle tom-toms are beating loudly that Terry Durack has landed a prime reviewing gig with a Sydney based newspaper. “  On Monday May 18th, Amanda Meade of The Australian reported the following in their media section:



Food for thought
THE Sydney Morning Herald has asked Terry Durack to return to Sydney as chief critic for Good Living and editor of The Good Food Guide. The former Herald critic lives in London with his wife, the food writer Jill Dupleix, and is currently the restaurant critic for The Independent on Sunday. Last Monday, Dupleix revealed on her Fairfax Media blog Table Talk that she was moving. “I’m about to move house and will have to go without my normal kitchen tools and equipment for weeks on end. Oh dear. What can I live without? What can’t I live without? Is there life without an espresso machine? A salad spinner? And a chopping board? How on earth can you cook without a chopping board?” A little awkward, one would think, given that she shares the blog with Simon Thomsen, the current chief critic of Good Living who was to lose his job that same week. Diary hears that on Friday Thomsen was told he had lost his gig on Good Living but he was welcome to stay and help Durack edit The Good Food Guide. We contacted Thomsen and Good Living editor Sue Bennett but neither responded to our queries.


Quaglinos London reopens after customer death

Guardian review of new Conran restaurant, “Boundary”

The 50 coolest places to eat in Europe, London, USA etc

VG story on hot new San Francisco restaurant RN74 w some gr8 pics

Forbes Top 10 Restaurant Values In The World

Danny Meyer, Trump, Alan Stillman all adios Tavern on the Green proposal

The world’s best dim sum?

What restaurants need to survive a recession.  Definitive article.

Rockpool Sydney  (NOT B & G) replaces a la carte w new set price format of either 4 courses at $120 or 9 course DG at $195

Jancis Robinson recommends new London wine bar

NY Mag asks “is there a cultural shift away from formality and traditional exactitude  in restos?”

A tour of the Per Se kitchen with Thomas Keller

50 best new U.S. restaurants

full list of the San Pellegrino top 100 restaurants.

WINE NEWS:

New York Times  story, “Investing in Wine: Now May Be the Time “

2008 BX Chateaux prices still down despite high Parker scores

World’s most coveted champagnes,

Scientists blow 6 yrs & $12M to tell us NZ sav bl winning combination of sweet, sweaty passionfruit, asparagus, & cat’s pee,

2008 could be “declared” for Portugese vintage port

Leading UK wine merchant’s opposing view on Parker’s 2008 BX push

Eric Asimov of NYT joins my Chablis Lovers Bandwagon at The Pour: Looking Past Burgundy to Chablis

A very timely & lengthy piece on wine ethics from Jancis Robinson

Good news for Portugese VP lovers as Taylor’s, Fonseca & Croft all “declare” the 2007 vintage

Foster’s vineyard clearance sale

Burgundy’s Young Guns (Wine Spectator)

This mega post starts off with the fascinating story of the New York landmark eating house “Tavern on the Green”

Operated  by The LeRoy family since 1973, their 35-year tenure has come to an end, and a new lease is on offer via a tender process being run by the New York City Department of Parks and Recreation. 

The tender document itself is a fascinating read detailing the history of the venue and with many historic photos. Download the document here:

The “Tavern” is the second highest grossing restaurant in the USA, surpassed only by the Las Vegas 62,000square foot behemoth TAO, which grossed $68 million last year.  (A full list of the facts and figures of the top 100 grossing restaurants in the USA can be downloaded by clicking here)

As you can imagine, the interest is high with a veritable Melbourne Cup (Kentucky Derby?) field of the sexiest names in USA restaurants. Try these: the Cipriani family,  Trump Organisation, Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group , (which has just  opened a whole swag of outlets at the NY Mets home, Shea Stadium),  famed steak chain Smith & Wollensky, etc.

The LeRoy family have been the beneficiaries of a very sweet rent deal which is just 3.5% of gross turnover. The new operator however will not be so lucky, with NYC parks department likely to demand a rent of between 10 and 20% of turnover. This level of rent along with significant capital expenditure requirements for refurbishments and redesign- anywhere between $10-$20 million – should certainly ensure that the “Tavern” will be run as a high volume tourist, conference and wedding venue focused on dollars first, second and third. Nice move NYC Parks, never mind the quality, bank the dollars.

Lethlean & Wilden debut this weekend in the Australian

Seems like an eternity since we last heard from them and god knows their authoritative restaurant criticism has been much missed. Click here to read more.

And now the part you have been waiting for:

The famous all-you-can-eat buffet of the last few weeks juiciest treats (reheated):

Wine smackdown: MUST READ these two stories, the first on Yellowtail caused a stir with wine world heavies. Read the bruising here and more here

Wine News: A nice line up of 2006 Grand Cru burgundies @ Circa, where the blue swimmer crab canneloni was outstanding. Click here for the menu and wines

Wine News: I know this was released last year, and I am a Bond and Bollinger fan, but SURELY, this takes the prize for the most indulgent and clueless  wine marketing campaign of recent times? RRP was around $4K

Latest attempt by French government to kill own wine industry

Off-Topic News: An astonishing article on the end of Wall St

VERY pertinent article from San Francisco  given this week”s Herald-Sun caning of Hellenic Republic. Click here

Wine News: Bordeaux Primeur 2008 market sees Chateau Latour release @ 45% down vs 2007 (was 240euro, now 130).

Wine news: 2007 Chablis A.C. Gilbert Picq. This wine punches WAY above its weight & price, minerality, drive & intensity.  93/100 a MUST buy

Restaurant news: More reports on the rise of BYO. How long before we see more here? Click here

Must read article on the raw milk cheese review – Click here Fight the protectionist anti raw-milk lobby!

Wine news: 2007 Yabby Lake Pinot, fragrant, lacy, less burly than normal: spicy red fruit, elegant, long, vg 92/100

Restaurant news: Pacific House South Yarra, said it b4, say it again, simply outstanding roast meats. Tonite the pork!

Wine Primeurs news: Jancis Robsinson FT article on the conundrum that is 2008 BX pricing/futures.

Restaurant info: valuable leadership tips for restaurant owners/managers, applicable to any industry. Click here

Wine news: Champagne to cut production in response to fall in sales of more than 40% to USA, Europe, Japan etc. Click here

Wine news: 2004 V-Girardin Corton-Charlemagne from  1/2btl – Whoa, RACING! Potent cx bouquet, racy & powerful on entry & mid palate, longgg 95/100

Wine news: 1999 Mongeard -Mugneret Grands-Echezeaux, complex evolved bouquet, lovely sous-bois with dancing red fruit aromas. Palate echos the bouquet, fragrant, long,yum 93/100

Wine news: 1999 Raveneau Butteaux ready to go, med-full bodied, rounded, honeyed, balanced and medium long. vg effort 4 tricky vintage 90/100

Restaurant and Wine news: WSJ article on how fine-dining restaurants have become BYO friendly. How novel, hospitality!

More Padma: interview and (extended) behind the scenes footage of her famous burger shoot – Click here

Restaurant news out of NYC: “Why Three Star Dining is Dead” Interesting reading.

Wine News: I ‘ve never tried the wines, however this OZ wine web site is WAY cool.

Wine News: Jancis Robinsons’ full article on the brand health of OZ wine.

Wine News: Good news for Vintage Port lovers. 2007 “declared” by House of Symington, quality up there with “1945,1966 and 2000″.

Wine News: Prices very strong @ Sotheby’s Hong Kong wine auction.

Wine News: Girardin 04 Corton Charlie Quintessence: cx, lees and barrel ferment character; bright fruit on entry, long powerful, slightly warm 94/100

Wine News: 1975 Max F Richter Mulheimer Hellenkloster BA Eiswein; if u don’t mind, how good is this!
fresh as, balanced, long, cx, 95/100

Wine News: Barolos, 2004 Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc92/100 and 2001 Sandrone Cannubi Boschis 94/100. Just a great pair of wines and I just want to say YUM!

Restaurant news: how would you like to be able to enjoy this at MCG, Ethiad Stadium, Flemington etc?

Wine News: Moet et Chandon and Scarlett Johansson team up to pit more fizz into Champagne sales:

And last but not least:

Restaurant news: Certainly sir, one pizza w the lot including nose candy.


For your enjoyment, a selection of this weeks juiciest “tweets”. You can of course receive these delivered fresh daily simply by going to TWITTER , signing up for a free account and then “following” me at “thefrankreport“. If this all sounds a little too difficult, I assure you that it’s not. Remember : half the job is completed upon commencement.

Let the info banquet begin:

Restaurant News: More news on The Bot and the Cornerstone group: The Age

Restaurant News: The Botanical and other hotels owned by the Cornerstone Group are now officially in receivership The Age

Wine News: 2005 Girardin Meursault Narvaux – pungent bouquet of toasty & sl salty oak. vg attack, med-full bodied, long, savoury. 91/100

Restaurant News: More from the Botanical – exc sashimi of yellow fin w prawns. Wagyu burger exc and might be back to Melbourne’s best. (postscript: beware the garlic)

Padma Lakshmi, Cookbook author, Foodnetwork host, supermodel etc, takes food porn to new levels: http://bit.ly/IObSc

Restaurant News: Quick lunch @ Il Bacaro. Very pleasing food and service. http://www.ilbacaro.com.au/

Wine News: Brisbane-based Champagne only web site run by former winner of the prof section of a Vin de Champagne award http://bit.ly/CB0s9

A fascinating article on the “Kindle” and how it will impact on the future of book publishing and newspapers: http://bit.ly/zxsJ

Twitter etiquette: Essential reading for all of us. Are u a broadcaster or a responder? And how about point 12? http://bit.ly/laxI7

Lucky Melbourne foodies: Outstanding meat, delivered to your door at a great price: Hopkins River Beef Co. http://bit.ly/EtMw

Wine news from October I missed. Dom Leflaive expand into Monthelie & Rully, perhaps Cote de Nuits also. scroll down at destination web post: http://bit.ly/3pc0

Restaurant Alert: Lynch‘s new terrace buzzy for breakfast, Miles playing, good vibe. Note menus now say Bistro Lynch.

Wine Alert: 1998 Renato Ratti Barolo Rocche @ Luisa Valazza dinner @ Crown. Stunning wine, an easy 94/100. The dinner just as good, score: 94/100

Wine News: DRC expands into Corton. Scroll down the linked page to “Changes of Ownership” http://bit.ly/3pc0

Wine News: Hadn’t thought to check out Clive Coates on the web. Some interesting bits and pieces for burgundy lovers: http://bit.ly/3pc0

Wine Alert: 2007 Fleurie Les Moriers Dom Chignard, classic beaujolly, fresh, vibrant, med bodied, moreish. 90/100

Wine Prices: Luxury Champagne’s maintain their price fizz: http://bit.ly/1mvzHf

Restaurant News: The GFC is being felt at Per Se: http://bit.ly/iQwpx

Wine Report: Mega tasting of Clos st Hune in NYC http://bit.ly/g0UAd

While the blog has been static, the “tweeting” has been hectic. Here’s a round-up of the juiceiest “tweets” since my last post, served up in small bites for your quick and easy consumption.

In future, I’ll periodically do an email like this for those who like their info served plain and don’t want to  be a part of the twitter revolution. Let the feast begin:

Wine Note: 2005 vs 2006 x 4 Dom Leflaive 1er crus – VERY strong line up, 05′s easily superior, 05 Pucelles a ko: vif, balance, length. 19/20 about 3 hours ago from TweetDeck

Restaurant Alert: Rockpool Bar & Grill Sydney – Been reading the menu and feel the need for a quick syd visit to try it out.

Wine News: 2008 BX Futures campaign to be delayed? http://bit.ly/3P5PxY

Revised classification of 1855 BX wines according to London International Vintners Exchange: http://www.liv-ex.typepad.com/

Per Se’s response to the GFC? http://bit.ly/1aepoc

Good short piece on why restaurants fail: http://bit.ly/YtJTg

A great Paris story from the blog I tweeted earlier: http://bit.ly/q29zv

If you are interested in French wine, I think this site is well worthwhile checking out: http://www.wineterroirs.com/

A good story on Domaine Leflaive http://bit.ly/toqL

Unbelieveable wine auction in Hong Kong of great, great burgundies. download catalogue (warning 20MB!) here: http://bit.ly/19iuji

The blonde with an excellent article on coffee: http://bit.ly/wEJiV

Those wondering what the blonde and John Lethlean are up to should read here: http://bit.ly/UiAGd

Yet another reason to buy burgundy: http://bit.ly/SpGfK

Wine Value Alert: 2007 Fleurie Dom des Nugues – ah, cru Beaujolais, juicy, satisfying, affordable. approx $38 RRP from http://bit.ly/eU8RP

and to finish

Hurley 2006 estate Pinot; evidence of why Judge Kevin Bell deserves to be considered as 1 of oz’s very best Pinot winemakers

Your Chef and Editor

A man takes a small break from blogging and all hell breaks loose. Here’s the latest inside restaurant news available:

lukeMangan Moves on Melbourne

Global restaurateur, executive chef and occasional morning tv sausage-sizzler Luke Mangan, has done a deal to expand his restaurant empire to Melbourne. Mangan, who already has the highly successful Glass Brasserie in Sydney’s Hilton Hotel, as well as the Salt and South restaurants in Japan and California, has linked with a veteran Melbourne hotelier and bought the lease on The Palace Hotel in Port Melbourne.

I’m told the Mangan venue will be named Luke Mangan @The Palace and there has been talk of the pub incorporating a micro-brewery.

Mangan and Co. bought the lease from the Cornerstone Group, who are busy divesting (SEE NEXT STORY) themselves of hotels bought in a private equity buying frenzy of 2006-2007. For more on that, read John Lethlean’s story HERE

the-famous-becco-olives2Moves at Becco

News just in has Becco’s Simon Hartley buying out his partners Richard Lodge and LIz Egan. The partnership has enjoyed enormous success over the last ten years as Becco staked its place as the next gen Melbourne restaurant institution.

 

Terry & Jill

Terry & Jill

The jungle tom-toms are beating loudly that Terry Durack has landed a prime reviewing gig with a Sydney based newspaper. Durack has been in London since 2000 with partner and fellow foodie Jill Dupleix. He started reviewing for The Independent on Sunday and she was appointed cookery editor of The Times.

Prior to moving to London Durack was the restaurant critic at the Sydney Morning Herald.  A Sydney gig for Durack would also partially explain why Dupleix has assumed only a part time gig at The Melbourne Food & Wine Festival as Creative Director.

Seems that D & D were keen to return to Melbourne and when John Lethlean vacated the restaurant reviewers chair at The Age, word was that Durack was very interested in the gig, which ultimately went to Larissa Dubecki. Given the advanced stage of cost-cutting and slash and burn tactics at The Age, it was always odds-on that Fairfax would opt to deploy an in-house replacement.

More to come, watch this space.

*The above expression was made famous by racecaller Bert Bryant of then 3UZ, (now sport927)  and is an adaptation of “where there is smoke….”

Super snooper  and new The Australian newspaper food supremo John Lethlean (follow him on Twitter) has just given me the  scoop that Paul Wilson, celebrated chef,  has parted company with his employer Cornerstone Hotel Group.

In conjunction with leading Melbourne restaurateur and former Botanical owner Chris Lucas, Wilson was instrumental in the resurrection of “The Bot” with it becoming one of Melbourne’s most important hospitality openings of the last ten years. Since Lucas sold out at the top of the hospitality market and new owners Cornerstone took over, Wilson has assumed wider responsibilities within the group including that of the recently refurbished and reopened The Half Moon in Brighton.

More news as it comes to hand.

Note that prior to Lethlean and The Blonde’s official debut with The Weekend Australian Magazine, you can keep up with their latest news by following them on Twitter. Lethlean’s details are above and this finds The Blonde.

Way Out West Where the Deals Are Done...

Way Out West Where the Deals Are Done...

If you work west of Swanston St and have been lamenting the schlep required to get your fix of Frank Camorra’s Movida magic, relief is on the way.

John Lethlean, soon-to-be food supremo at The Australian, tipped me the project is another partnership between chef Frank Camorra, Andy McMahon, David Macintosh and CBD property developer/investor and all-round man about town Peter Bartholomew who has his fingers in more hospitality pies than the man at Four ‘n Twenty.

News is that Camorra et al have reached agreement with ISPT the owners of 500 Bourke St, to occupy the entire first floor rooftop level of a new John Wardle Architect designed structure appended to the north of the building. The size of the new venue  is significant, with some 600M2 of internal space and extensive outdoor areas to boot.

This will be a breakthrough hospitality development for the west end of the city. Savvy hospitality operators have shyed away from big investments “out west” due to the lack of theatres, major hotel accomodation and other desirable nightlife activities, such as those that drive the eastern  end of the city. Rumour is the Movida team have done a deal relecting the quality of their offer and the  risk of the location, by securing a significant contribution from the building owners for the buildout.  Expect more aggresive deals like this to be done in the next six months as developers struggle to secure operators for sites not considered “AAA” locations.